Lobuche East and Island Peak Climbing

Mode of Trekking ( Lodge & Camping Trek)
24 Days Trip
16 Days Trek, 4 Days Climbing, 4 Nights in Hotel.
Challenging

Lobuche and Island Peak climbing is one of the best climbing expeditions in Nepal. It fulfills the desire of all adventure seekers those whose dreams is to summit on the Himalayan tops. Both these peaks meet the challenge of technicality and endurance. So all the climber must be physically very fit and ready to take the challenge. A good knowledge of mountain climbing is a bonus but don’t worry if you don’t have any, we will give you the training before the summit. In every climbing expedition we organize climbing clinic before the summit so you get acquainted with the mountaineering devices and the terrain. Our well trained and experienced climbing Sherpa’s will give you the training. In this expedition we explore the heart of Sherpa home land and visit the famous monastery of Thyangboche for the blessing from the Rimpoche (Head Lama). The trail follows the Gokyo valley exploring the serene Gokyo lakes and then to Cho la Pass and to Dzongla. We set up a camp at the base of Lobuche and move on to high camp for the world class view from the summit of Lobuche Peak. Being at the top of the summit itself is a victory and enjoy the beauty of the mountains is a solace and adds a charm in your experience. From the top you will be able to see Ama Dablam, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Changtse (in Tibet), Pumori, Gyachung Kang, Cho Oyu and many others. Our next summit is Island Peak. We get to the Chukkung Valley and to the Island Peak Base Camp. As we get to the Island Peak Base Camp, the peak disappears as it is round the corner and hides from the rock face which is right above us but on the way to the Base Camp the view of Lhotse is just amazing as you can see the sheer rock face that goes all the way to the summit. On our summit day, we pass high camp and climb further to the ridge where we put on our crampons and then we get to the snow line. The climb to the summit is a steep vertical climb of 200 meters. The view from the summit is just incredible as you can see Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Amadablam and many others. With a sense of pride and a good experience we return back to the Base Camp and then to Kathmandu.

ITINERARY

Day 1. Arrive in Kathmandu
You arrive in Kathmandu and are transferred to hotel. A pre-trek briefing will be given for your safe stay in Kathmandu. The evening is free but since this is our first night in Kathmandu we will go out for an evening meal at one of Kathmandu’s fine Nepali restaurants.

Day 2. Gear Check& Half Day Sightseeing Tour. Rest of day at leisure.
This morning a group meeting with gear check will be held and at this time any necessary items will be hired or purchased. A group sightseeing tour has been arranged, taking in the key attractions in and around Kathmandu. If time does not permit, the tour can be taken after the expedition when there is a full day at leisure in kathmandu.

Day 3. Fly to Lukla and trek to Monjo
After breakfast in the hotel we take a bus/car to the domestic terminal of Kathmandu Airport for the 40 minute flight to Lukla. As we land we become struck by the scale of huge peaks that surround the village which is only a taste of what is to come. We will have time to explore the village while the Sherpa crew sort and load the trekking equipment. To assist with acclimatization, we allow 2 days for the walk up to Namche Bazaar. We walk to Phakding for lunch and walk along the banks of the Dudh Koshi, crossing this majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. We meet many porters from the south ferrying supplies to Namche Bazaar. The trail keeps close to the river valley and is lined with beautiful blue pine and rhododendron forest that is very spectacular in the spring months when the flowers are in bloom. We cross the Dudh Koshi at Benkar where there are tantalizing glimpses of the snow peaks Kusum Kangaru and Thamserku. From here it is only a short walk to Monjo where we arrive for an afternoon cup of tea. Overnight at Monjo.

Day 4. Monjo to Namche
This morning we cross the seas green waters of the Dudh Koshi and pass through the gates of the Sagarmatha National Park. We will then cross the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and the Bhote Koshi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region. Many Tibetans cross the nearby border to trade their wares and the local market is a fascinating spectacle. This is a good place to buy genuine Tibetan artifacts. Just across the valley to the east stand the peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega, both very impressive mountains.

Day 5. Rest day at Namche
We will spend a day in Namche Bazaar resting and allowing our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of 3,450m. Namche is a colorful village with many wonderful and interesting shops and vendors, fabulous food, and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. It is advisable not to ascend too quickly especially into the Gokyo area where we are eventually going and suffer drastically from AMS. This is something that can be avoided by acclimatizing steadily over a period of days. With our walk to Thamo we gain valuable time acclimatizing as well as being a good chance to visit another valley in the Khumbu area. Thamo is a lovely little place and well worth the effort in trekking here and back in a day. After breakfast in Namche we steadily plod along the valley passing a large amount of beautifully sculpted chortens and Mani stones. We pass through a number of very small villages where the local people are always pleased to see us. It is a short day hike through the tranquil forest with occasional wild life to see. In the afternoon, we can visit the Sherpa Museum that houses and exhibit on traditional Sherpa lifestyle and a fabulous photography display by a local Nepalese naturalist. One room highlights the Sherpa traditions and in another, Sherpa high altitude climbers are presented.

Day 6. Trek to Khumjung
Leaving the main trail we climb steeply out of Namche Bazaar. We pass Shyangboche Airstrip and proceed further on to the Everest View Hotel. This hotel was built with Japanese money to provide very expensive accommodation for people flying into Shyangboche. This has never really worked as Shyangboche at 3900m is too high to just fly into from Kathmandu and many people doing this suffer serious altitude problems. However the hotel does provide a wonderful view of Everest. We can perhaps have a cup of tea and enjoy the spectacular views of many beautiful mountains including Amadablam. We then descend down to a very unique and traditional village of Khumjung. It is a likely chance that we encounter a brightly colored Danphe Pheasant, the national bird of Nepal, which lives only at high altitude. It is a beautiful village under the Supreme protection of Mount Khumbila. In the afternoon you have an opportunity to visit the Khumjung School built by Sir Edmund Hillary and witness the scalp of the Yeti in the monastery.

Day 7. To Dole
Leaving the main trail to Mt. Everest, climb high on the ridge to 4000m past a large chorten at the village of Mong, said to be the birth place of the Saint Lama Sange Dorje, the reincarnate lama of Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet who introduced Buddhism to the Khumbu. The trail then descends steeply towards the Dudh Koshi, leaves the main route through to Phortse and Pangboche, and instead turns north towards Gokyo. We will have a lunch at the bottom. After lunch a stiff but attractive climb leads to Dole which lies just above the tree line.

Day 8. To Machhermo
Another short day today starting with a climb out of the small Dole Valley before ascending more gradually up the Dudh Koshi Valley, high above the river. The trail passes many summer settlements, used when Yaks are taken to these pastures for breeding and grazing in the summer months. Ahead of us are excellent views of Cho Oyu while back down the valley are peaks of Kang Taiga and Thamserku. This is a short day, essential for acclimatization and we will arrive at Machhermo in time for lunch. It was here in 1974 that a Yeti was reported to have attacked a Sherpani and killed two Yaks. There is time in the afternoon for acclimatization walks in the surrounding hills for even better views of the surrounding mountains.

Day 9. To Gokyo
Following the valley high above the river, we commence the ascent of Gokyo Village. There are excellent views of Cholatse at the village of Phanka and we stop to enjoy them. Mount Cho Oyu dominates the skyline to the north as we climb the moraines on the left flank of the Ngozumpa Glacier. The climb is steep to the first of the four lakes that lie in the Gokyo area but the trail levels off towards the second lake. Finally ascend a path past the largest of the lakes Dudh Pokhari to Gokyo at 4750m. Gokyo is a small settlement of lodges on the shores of an azure blue lake. In the afternoon we can walk up the hill behind for incredible views of the Ngozumpa Glacier.

Day 10. Ascent of Gokyo Ri (peak) and to Thangnak
We will rise early for an ascent of Gokyo Peak, a straight forward but steep climb, and tiring due to the altitude. As we climb the views become even more fantastic and from the top we can see four of the seven highest peaks in the Nepal Himalaya: Everest, Makalu, Lhotse and Cho Oyu. Countless other towering snow-peaks and rock spires fill the horizons, including Gyachung Kang to the east of Cho-Oyo, Cholatse, Taweche and Kangchung. Stretching out for miles below us is the longest glacier in Nepal, the Ngozumpa Glacier, which tumbles down from the slopes of Cho Oyu. The striking color of the Gokyo Lakes completes the picture. It takes about 2 hours to get to the top and an hour to get back to Gokyo so there is plenty of time to sit for a while absorbing the magnificent scenery. We return to Gokyo for lunch. After lunch we trek to Thangnak for overnight camping.

Day 11. Trek to Dzongla
The day begins very early to reach the top of the pass in the best possible conditions. Depending on the snow conditions, it will take us approximately 4 hours to reach the saddle of the pass. The upper part of the route can be snow covered particularly after November. There will be time on the crown of the pass to drink in the experience before the descent into the valley on the other side. It is a true mountain experience as the snow peaks and glaciers now surround us. Do not wander around the snow field as there are crevasses. We descend to the grazing pastures below, the trail becoming more and more defined as we approach to our lodge at Dzongla.

Day 12. Preparatory day at Lobuche Base Camp
Today we will learn climbing techniques from our climbing Sherpa and do some rope training. We will also check all our climbing gears and get acquainted with the climbing gears. Rest of the afternoon is at leisure and get ready for the next day.

Day 13. Trek to high camp
Today we will carry our personal mountaineering equipments in our day pack. This is to get used to with the weight for the next day summit attempt. The rest of stuff like sleeping bag, food, tents and other things will be carried by our staff. The remaining stuff that you don’t need at high camp, please leave behind at the base camp. We will have half of our staff waiting us there and they will look after your belongings.
It takes about 4 hours to get to high camp. Our camp is set on a small expanse of rock, above a deep, blue lake and close to the mountain.

Day 14. Summit Lobuche East and return to Base Camp
We make an early start today along the South East Ridge. We ascend steadily to a plateau at around 6000m, and then traverse around to an exposed ridge, which we will follow to the summit slopes. Wherever necessary we will fix ropes. Approximately six hours of steady climbing brings us to the far eastern summit. From here it is a steady climb along the summit ridge towards the east summit, which for us marks our summit. The main summit is not far in distance but requires some technical climbing. This final section of the climb is not for the faint-hearted, as there are huge drops on both sides, so this section will definitely be fixed with a rope. From the top we are well rewarded with superb views across to Ama Dablam , Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Changtse (in Tibet) Pumori, Gyachung Kang, Cho Oyu and the myriad peaks to the west and south. After a full day’s climbing, we retrace our steps back to High Camp, pack up, then with weary legs head down to base camp. The day’s climb could be anywhere between ten and fourteen hours, depending on conditions and our progress.

Day 15. Contingency Day
Today has been set aside as a contingency day.

Day 16. Trek to Dingboche
A lovely day’s trekking down and along some very scenic Himalayan valleys. We trek past the turquoise Chola Lake, beneath the peak of Tahuche and cross the trail that leads to Everest base camp at Thukla. After crossing the Thukla River our trail descends down to the beautiful farming village of Dingboche where we will have our lunch. From here the trail ascends the Chukung Valley towards Island Peak and to our campsite at Chukung, a small settlement at 4720m. The view from our camp site is stunning as we can look directly across the valley to the fantastic snow and ice formation on Ama Dablam. Right behind us rears the whole of the Nuptse face and this incredible wall of rock and snow fills the whole horizon.

Day 17. Trek to Island Peak base camp
Moving up the Imja valley, between Ama Dablam, Lhotse and a panorama of other peaks, we ascend onto lateral moraine to a camp in ablation valley above the normal base camp for the climb.

Day 18. Summit of Island Peak
We start at 2 in the morning. It is still dark outside so we will need a help of a torch light. After we have breakfast and get organized we climb gradually to high camp and we get passed high camp. Just above high camp there are some rocky steps which require moderate scrambling and up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. From here, our climbing Sherpa will fix a rope for the strenuous ascent of nearly 140m to the summit ridge. The summit ridge is a classic alpine ridge and quite exposed, (we fix rope here also) and traverse our way to the summit. The view from here is just breath taking. You would be able to see Lhotse, Makalu, Amadablam and Baruntse. After some exhilarating moments on the summit we descend by the same route to the base camp.

Day 19. Trek to Debuche
We retrace our trail back to Dingboche. Further down we cross the Khumbu Khola. We then descend to the small settlements at Orsho and Shomare, where we take lunch, and later pass through Lower Pangboche to reach the suspension bridge over the Imja Khola River and re-trace our steps to Debuche.

Day 20. Debuche to Khumjung
From Debuche it is just 30 minutes of climbing through birch, silver fir and rhododendron forest to the ridge where Thyangboche monastery is located. We spend time taking pictures at the monastery with Everest and Amadablam in the back ground before descending through forest to the bridge over the Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tanga where there are water driven prayer wheels. We then climb and contour around the hillside to Sanasa where we have a lunch. After lunch we head off on a small trail that ascends to the villages of Khumjung and Khunde. It is a comfortable days walk, with time to explore these unique and more traditional villages. As we near them we pass through terraced fields that are home to a brightly coloured pheasant, the Daphe Pheasant, the national bird of Nepal. The monastery at Khumjung is well renowned for possessing the legendary Yeti scull. Your leader will organise this for you.

Day 21. Khumjung to Phakding
Near by on a hill top, with views of mountains, is Everest View Hotel, a joint Nepali-Japanese project, where you can stop for refreshments before passing through the Yak breeding farm and descending to Namche Bazaar. This is a lovely days walk, the descent is easy and relaxed with the hard work behind us and our return journey provides different views of mountains and villages that we pass on our ascent. We continue descending from Namche to the Dudh Koshi Valley before we make the final climb up to the airstrip at Lukla. In the evening, a farewell dinner may be followed by a few celebratory drinks with our Sherpa friends and crew.

Day 22. Fly to Kathmandu
We rise early in the morning to be ready for the arrival of your aircraft for the flight back to Kathmandu. We will be met at the airport and transferred to the Yak & Yeti Hotel.

Day 23. Kathmandu
In Kathmandu at leisure.

Day 24. Trip concludes (Unless further plans are made)
After breakfast we transfer you to the airport for your flight home.

The day-to-day schedule should be taken only as a general guide. A variety of factors, including adverse weather conditions, difficulty with transportation and politics can lead to enforced changes. Because of this it is not possible to guarantee that any of our holidays will run exactly according to the planned itinerary. The trip leader will make any changes, which are necessary.

NEPAL EXTENSIONS

There are a variety of interesting extensions you might choose to add on either before or after your trek. These options include:

Chitwan National Park:
It provides excellent opportunities to view the rare species such as sloth bear, bison, rhinoceros, leopard and the exclusive tiger. Early morning jungle walks and safaris on elephant back are amongst the most popular activities. The jungle lodge can be reached from Kathmandu either by air or by private vehicle.

White Water Rafting:
On the Trisuli or Seti Rivers.

Mount Everest Scenic Flight:
An hour flight departs Kathmandu early morning and provides spectacular views of Mount Everest and the surrounding mountains.

Bhutan:
A five day cultural visit to Paro, Thimpu and Punakha.

Tibet:
Please contact the Alps in Nepal office if you plan to extend your trip and let us know in advance.

Please contact the Alps in Nepal office if you plan to extend your trip and let us know in advance.

What's Included:
  • Expert Leadership
  • Accomodation at hotel Yak and Yeti in Deluxe rooms on twin sharing basis. Before and after the expedition on bed and breakfast basis.
  • Trek Map/ City Map
  • Climbing permit for both the peaks
  • Professional climbing Sherpa’s
  • All tented camping arrangements in the field, including branded tents for your sleeping, warm cushion sleeping mattress, sleeping pillow, kitchen tent, dinning tent with table and chair, shower tent, toilet tent with seat, community cook gear, services of camp commissary crew included camp and cook staff.
  • Porter for carrying your duffle bag and all camping equipments.
  • Sherpa’s’ to assist you in the trek.
  • Alps in Nepal provides you to use sleeping pillow, down sleeping bag and down jacket, inner liner and most importantly the hot water bag will be give every night to keep you warm.
  • All meals included in the trek; morning cup of tea/coffee with biscuits, lunch (three course meal), afternoon cup of tea/coffee with biscuits, dinner (three course meal)
  • Climbing course at Lobuche Base Camp.
  • All required personal and group climbing gear such as plastic boots, crampons, climbing rope, ice axe, zoomer, harness, figure of eight, carabineer etc.
  • Gamow Bag (a life saving device in altitude).
  • National park entrance fees.
  • TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) card.
  • Alps in Nepal t-shirt, duffle bag and a memorable gift package as a souvenir.
  • Welcome dinner in a traditional Nepali restaurant.
  • Group medical kit.
  • Half day sightseeing tour.
  • City Guide.
  • Sightseeing tours entrance fees.
  • Domestic flight (Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu).
  • Domestic airport taxes.
  • All staff insurance.
  • Warm clothing and other required gear for porters like Gortex jacket and trousers, trekking boots, sleeping bags/blanket, woolen hat, woolen gloves, woolen socks, sun glasses etc.
What's not Included:
  • Warm clothing and other required gear for porters like Gortex jacket and trousers, trekking boots, sleeping bags/blanket, woolen hat, woolen gloves, woolen socks, sun glasses etc.
  • Your international flights
  • Visa fees and vis extension costs
  • Medical examination (if required) and vaccination costs
  • Personal expenditure, bar bills, laundry, telephone calls etc.
  • Tipping at the end of the trip (tipping is a tradition throughout Indian sub continent. The staff works very hard and looks forward to your tip as an indication of a job well done.
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu.
  •  Personal clothing and equipment
  • Travel insurance. Make sure your insurance covers helicopter evacuation. This is in case of an emergency.
  • Optional trips.
  • Tips for the hotel staff in Kathmandu for carrying your luggage to your room. 
  • Charges incurred as a result of flight delays or cancellation which is beyoiiund Alps in Nepa’s control. Although we provide insurance letter which you can claim to your insurance company.
  • Anything not mentioned in the trip cost includes list.

WHAT TO EXPECT

Expert Leadership
Expert leadership is the key to an exciting, unforgettable experience. We have a very good selection of local leaders who are professionally trained and are among the most experienced in Nepal. Who better to look after you than your professional local leader, who speaks the language and knows the culture, intimately? The following people regularly lead this trek: 

PETER CHETTRI: Peter holds a very good sense of humour and adventurous spirit which has made him an asset to the company. He was born in Nepal and brought up in Sikkim. As a graduate in Arts, he has a good command over both spoken and written English. He has been leading treks with Alps in Nepal for four years. He has done a first aid training specialised in Acute Mountain Sickness. His excellent leadership has always earned a good reputation to the company. 

ASHIM SUBBA: Ashim is a travel enthusiast who has always been keen on adventure. He went to the University in Calcutta and holds a Bachelor's Degree in Commerce. Apart from being fluent in Nepali and English, he also speaks Japanese and has been involved in trekking for last two years. He has completed the first aid training including high altitude medicine. His expertness as a leader is one of the keys to our success.

Why Alps in Nepal is your first choice for Adventure
Alps in Nepal, combines the best of international standards with the deep knowledge of local experts. It offers you services and an experience that surpass those offered by the large international companies; with the reliability that local outfits lack. With over 15 years of experience we have successfully organized tours and treks for several thousand patrons who can testify the unique class of service we offer. Please feel free to ask us about the selection of your trip or for any further information.

NMA NTB TAAN KEEP